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Has your power window fallen down? How to repair, not replace broken cable bosses on the guides on a 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 or 2008 Ford F-150, Explorer or Expedition electric power window regulator for about 50 Cents. This fix should work on most regulators that have cables that handle the window lifting including: Lincoln, isuzu, Nissan, suburban, tahoe, excalade, yukon, silverado, mercedes, audi, GM, chrysler, BMW
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21 Comments

  1. Have you ever thought about maybe reviewing your video before posting it if you had reviewed your video you should have seen the your video is to dark lights camera action

  2. Thanks for making the video and your great tips. My 15-year-old Dodge Dakota has a similar plastic anchor that broke and I have a few tips that might help someone:

    (1) To release tension on the cable so I can anchor it easier, on the opposite end of the long regulator bracket that has the roller, my unit has a half round plastic roller guide where I popped the cable out of the track. Once I get the loose cable end anchored, I will work the cable back over this guide. Compressing the spring where the cable enters the motor drum assemble will release some of the tension on the cable. It may help to use a hook tool when pulling the cable back over the plastic guide. I also took a small 12-volt battery and momentarily attached it to the motor with alligator clips, while pulling on the loose end of the cable. This allowed me to position the unattched/broken end of the cable about half way up the regulator guide, where I could work on it easier.

    (2) On another window, I learned the hard way: in order to prevent a chewed up rat's nest of damaged cable, when the cable anchor breaks, DO NOT try to operate that window motor switch any more at that point. If you forget and operate the window switch, then without tension the cable can become a jumbled mess as the drum it was wound around and the worm gear chews it up. As a reminder to not operate the switch, I placed some black electrical tape over the switch, as it leaves less residue than most other tapes.

    (3) I once held up a window with duct tape, and removing the sticky residue was a tough job, even when using WD-40. Instead, I now use a heavy duty suction cup to hold up the window, about 5 inches or larger, and of course applied to the inside bottom of the window. The suction cups are used for automotive body and glass work and can be found in most parts stores or Harbor Freight. Make sure you clean the window and wet the rubber pad, which should allow it to hold for up to several months. When my window regulator failed, I was away from home and it was about to rain. I didn't have time to take the door panel off to pull the window up. Fortunately, I was able to wrap enough electrical tape around the end of a pair of long nose pliers to protect the glass, grab the edge of the window and pull it up enough where I could grab it with my hands, and apply the suction cup. From Sam Selph, S. Ga.

  3. Just because your tools suck, doesn't mean Ford's tools suck. The correct sockets are 10mm, 8mm, 6mm, and 5.5 mm. (Yes, it's a thing.) And socket stick? Really? 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣

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