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Video of new brackets for this rack and showing it holding 380lbs

View of my homemade power rack built with basic materials. Rack is currently in a small 11 x 11 spare room. I used carriage bolts where I could to make it stronger and easier to move if needed. Instead of metal brackets I made my on support blocks out of 2×4 material. Plyo boxes and gym rings are some other items I have made myself. If you think it through and check out some ideas/plans online you can make several pieces of equipment at a much lower price. A bench that is much sturdier than my current one is next on my list of things to make. Hopefully this helps.
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44 Comments

  1. instead of ditching the metal, cover it with some silicone o foam.. i don't know how the products are named in your country, i'm from argentina… but, is a good idea, to use less money, use the things that wrap tennis rackets or padle rackets.. are used even on drumming sticks.. maybe that helps

  2. sorry about being bad at responding. it has worked out well. too short for me to do pullups. hope this has helped out. do the fixed bench holder if you can. dont paint unless you have guards bc paint will end up on your knurling.

  3. Hi Ian, Since you have a router, you should take the router to all of your holes in the uprights. I did that to mine and it makes it look great. It eliminated the rough edges and it helps the bar feed in more smoothly. Cheers.

  4. Would would you estimate the 2×6's glued together could hold in terms of weight? I'm debating just using 4×4's right now but two 2×6's glued together seems like a good idea especially if it can hold more weight?¬†

  5. As far as the metal on metal problem, you could just wrap the metal of the rack part a few times over with some duct tape. It'll soften it up a bit so there is less of an impact when you rerack the bar and it'll keep it from scratching it up.

  6. Why not just wrap the piping elbows with a shitload of duct tape? Bar will be protected and youll still have the cool moveable elbows. Not to mention you could even it all out with enough tape.

  7. hey, very nice work, amazing, can you give me advice what wood should I use for similar power rack but im thinking
    on construct it in my back yard on open field (no protection for rain), is there any protection if you use wood ?

  8. Hey Ian I commented on your video a while back. I am currently constructing my own power rack, it is sort of a trial and error because I am using pressure treated wood despite the forums that warn against warping. All the lumber was free so I wanted to try since I can always reuse the lag bolts and build a new one.

    Have any tips or things you would have done differently?

  9. I can understand you concern with the metal on metal contact of your bar especially if you have a black zync oxide bar vs a chrome finished one. I would personally try to create some sort of painted smooth metal pegs. Majority of power racks use some sort of J-hook system made of smoother metal. The wood frightens me when I would be throwing the weight up on it. As a structure wood is extremely durable as you have stated but I worry about smaller surfaces handling the full brunt of your weight especially when its above your head (atleast for the adjustable pegs you are thinking of making). Just my 2 cents.

  10. You don't want to shell out the 400-500 bucks for a decent power rack but have no issues with dishing out 200-300 bucks for a bar?! ¬†Insane. ¬†A bar is a bar. ¬†If it holds weight and has a good diameter spending that much for a bar is just dumb. ¬†You can easily find awesome brand new bars for about $100. ¬†It's a bar…. why do you think there is a thing called a "junky" or "nice" bar? ¬†If it can hold the weight you want isn't it fulfilling its purpose? ¬†As for metal on metal. ¬†Store bought power racks are made of metal. ¬†The pegs on those are made of…. you guessed it, metal. ¬†Never heard of anyone worried about putting their bar on metal pegs before. ¬†Are you worried that the already textured surface for grip is going to get a scratch? ¬†I'll let you figure out the nonsense in that. ¬†2-300 for a bar, nearly wet myself from laughing when you said that. ¬†You can find awesome used stuff on craigslist for about 100-200 and that is a bar along with 200 lbs of weights. ¬†"Nice" bar, haha. ¬†For a guy who built his own power rack I can't help but see the irony that you fret over your bar's quality. ¬†As for the rack…. nice. ¬†In the process of drawing up plans for one myself. ¬†I plan on adding a high/low pulley system to mine though so I can do seated rows, lat pulldowns, weighted ab crunches, curls, triceps pushdowns, etc.¬†

  11. sorry for the delay…..it really depends on the bar you intend to use. With only 7' feet of space you may want to use a shorter bar. Measure distance between collars and subtract about 5 inches or so for spacing. Each bar is a little different so build to your bars specs. Height is just under 8' to fit in standard 8' ceiling height. Depth of rack can be whatever you think gives you enough space to squat. Just put some solid 2x lumber to mount pulleys. Just need to leave space for plates

  12. Ian Stitzel, can you please tell me the measurments of this rack. I have a 7' wide space available on my garage, any recomendation on a minimun size (LxW) for the rack? And I'll like to add one upper pulley and one lower pulley for pull downs and rowing exercise. Great job well done here.

  13. no problem….good question and for a lot of people it is probably easier to buy even if it will cost a couple hundred more. My cost was around $100 and buying a basic new one is around 300-400. I teach engineering classes and have access to a full workshop and had access to many things I didn't need to buy. I love building things and like having a piece that has a story behind it. To me it made sense to save some money and have an enjoyable project. Thanks for posting.

  14. Very nice. Clean and well designed. May I ask, what was your reasoning for building vs buying? I can't imagine that this was much less money than an inexpensive off the shelf rack. Not being snarky… honest question. Thanks for sharing

  15. hey mate can i have a email adress for you to help me build it also im doing it with 2×4's as bought the wrong size and cut it all already like a noob . what tool do you use to notch out the wood for the joints

  16. used a router with spiral bit and attached particle board and drilled a couple holes and used a peg for pivot point. Cut the perimeter first then switched holes to cut the interior to get a perfect circle….way better than a jigsaw. Use a roundover bit or bullnose bit with proper radius desired. not too hard and way better than the cheap pvc oven rings I have seen. Although birch plywood is nice…reg plywood works just fine. Must use plywood though

  17. around $100 if you use screws and closer to $150 with bolts. I did not factor in bits and tools needed. I have another video on here showing it holding 380lbs and held myself on that making it 565lbs. I have no concern with its strength.

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